Monroe Quick Strut Review

In my Monroe Quick Strut Review I talk about both the pros and the cons of the Quick strut. You can’t buy a spring, strut, strut hat,  and strut bearing separately for twice the price of what you can buy a fully ready to go Monroe Quick-Strut assembly.

Monroe Quick Strut Review

Monroe Quick Struts are just that. Quick. It doesn’t get any easier than this. Aside from the fact you can install them really fast, the real benefit here isn’t the installation time, it’s all the components that are included for one low price. You get:

  1. Bearing Plate
  2. Upper Spring Isolator
  3. Upper Spring Seat
  4. Coil Spring
  5. Boot Kit
  6. Lower Spring Isolator
  7. Premium Strut

OK, let’s get to the Monroe Quick Strut Review If you’re looking for race car handling, don’t install Monroe’s. Get the KYB Strut Plus instead.  If you’re looking for nice comfortable new car quality ride and handling, these are what you want.

I love installing complete spring and strut assembly’s because in the end the vehicle always rides better and steers better because of the new bearings that come in the top hat assembly part of the strut.  You just can’t go wrong installing these. Quality wise they should last as long or longer than the units that you took out.

One Problem Found In Our Monroe Quick Strut Review

The only thing you have to watch out for on these is there have been a small number of people reporting that the strut nut was loose on the new strut assembly and there was a rattle in the vehicle after installation. That’s it. No other problems.

So if you go with the Quick Struts, save yourself some grief and check the torque on the strut nut before you install them. By now hopefully, Monroe’s got that issue taken care of.

Does Your Vehicle Need Them?

If you have over 100,000 miles on your vehicle, absolutely. I can pretty much guarantee your springs are toast.  If it was my car and it had over 60K on it, I’d go with Quick Struts. Under that, I’d just install strut cartridges.

The Monroe Quick Struts are available for Honda, Toyota, Nissan, Chrysler, Buick, Oldsmobile, Dodge, and Chevrolet. Plus a few other makes and SUV’s too. Ford Explorer is one of them.

Good News

In the 31 years that I’ve been installing Monroe struts and shocks, I’ve never had to take a set back off a customers vehicle because of ride quality issues.  Monroe is also offering a limited lifetime warranty on the Quick Struts and they’re offering them for trucks and SUVs too now.

Buy or Don’t Buy?

Like I said above, if I’m going for a nice comfortable ride, I would buy the Monroe Quick-Strut and enjoy the new car ride that you get when you install them.

Check  Amazon for the best price. And they have Free shipping.  Click the button below and put in your own vehicle specs to see price and availability for your vehicle.

129 Replies to “Monroe Quick Strut Review”

  1. Thanks Joe for your review. I have a 1999 Toyota Camry CE (4 cylinder) and am looking for 4 new struts. Been considering the Monroe quick struts and the KYB similar product. I don’t want a harsh ride but just the original ride that the new car had. What are your thoughts about this? Thanks again.

  2. Hi Al,

    If you want soft ride for sure, go with Monroe. Handling and firmer ride, go with KYB.

  3. Joe,

    I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon. I am geting ready to install Monroe Quick Struts on all four corners. Do you recommend Loctite blue (or red) for lower or upper bolts? Also, the quick struts come with the top bolts and appear to be jamb nuts. Do you recommend using these or the original nuts? Also, for top or bottom nut/bolts, does reusing the old nut effect the torque rating? Thanks, Dave

  4. David,

    I don’t use loctite on those. Never had one come loose. Use the new nuts that come with the struts. Reuse of strut bolts has never been a problem for me. It it was the space shuttle I might use new bolts.

  5. Hi David,

    It’s me again. I went ahead and had the Monroe quick struts installed on my ’99 Toyota Camry CE. After installation, I noticed a rattling noise (sounds to me like plastic and coming from rear passenger side), especially on bumpy roads. I told them about the strut nut torquing issue (which they seemed to know about already). They decided to install two new struts, front and rear, as a solution.

    RIght now, I’m waiting for them to finish this new work.

    Do you have any thoughts about this?

    Thanks again.

  6. Joe,

    I was hoping i could tap your wisdom once more. Per my previous post, i went ahead and replaced all four struts with the monroe quick struts. Before the change, the driver’s side of the car was about 1/2″ lower than the passenger side. The car also pulls/drifts to the left. The change did not fix this as i had hoped. The ride is a little smoother, however. Before the strut change, I had the car aligned twice and was within spec, brakes are not dragging, wheel assemblies have been swapped and no difference. I did take some measurements and the front driver corner strut does seem to be compressed 1/2″ more than the front passenger corner. Could the car just be heavier on the driver’s side? Still debating when/if to take in my car for another alignment since i just did the strut change. Rides pretty much as it did before the change. Any thoughts on why the car drifts to the left? Do you think it is related to the height difference?
    Thanks in advance. Dave

  7. I would be looking at replacing the sway bar links and bushings in the rear. I’ve had a few of those over the years cause that very rattle over bumps you’re talking about.

  8. If the car was hit in the left front corner hard, this can cause the height difference. Going for another alignment doesn’t sound productive. Unless, you go to a front-end shop. Usually these problems are easily solved with a front end guy with lots of experience. The people you’re using should have been able to tell you what the problem is.

    And yes, height difference alone from left to right cause the car to pull because of weight distribution. I used to align a lot of motor homes in California and where the water tanks etc. were located was always a factor in how I would setup the alignment.

    Since new springs on the struts didn’t fix you’re height differential problem, I’d probably be looking at the uni-body. Assuming your tires are equal sizes in diameter.

  9. Thanks for the good review. Gonna attempt to install 2 rear quick struts on my Son’s 2001 Sable tomorrow morning. I do a lot of my own minor repairs. I have a friend who does the major stuff for me if needed. The car has about 61 k on it. Given to my son about 3 years ago by inlaws who bought it new.

  10. Hi Joe,

    Whats your opinion on the differences between the Monroe Quick Strut and the Leacree Complete Strut. I’m trying to resolve some ride issues on my 2003 GMC Envoy (Non Extended) has about 98,000 miles and is rattling when on bumpy roads so I will also look into the sway bar links and bushings. I live in Michigan and our roads are the worst so I know its time to do some work. Any thoughts? And Thank you for replying to my question.

  11. Hi Kenneth,

    Leacree is made in China. Monroe Quick Struts are made in Paragould, AR. according to this source:

    My first choice is made in America. The Leacree strut is not available in my area, so I don’t have any experience with them. But I do have years of experience with auto parts made in China. I only use them as a last resort due to numerous problems over the years with fit and performance.

    Sway bar links are your most likely source of rattles. With 98K on the clock, your Envoy is definitely due for some Quick Struts.

  12. Hi, i was wondering if these Monroe Quik struts are really soft and comfortable as you explained or are they a good mix of comfort and handling? i have a 93 Ford Taurus SHO, and just want to keep the oem ride, a good mix of comfortable ride and handling. Thanks!

  13. Hi Chris,
    According to Monroe, “Each Quick-Strut® assembly features application-engineered valving to optimize each vehicle’s unique ride and handling characteristics” which means it’s built to the spec that your car came out of the factory with. So they should perform in a like manner as the originals.

  14. Hi,
    I’m glad to read your thoughts on the difference in body height from side to side. I installed the quick struts and am very happy with the ride, yet noticed a full inch in difference from axle center to fender arch. When it dawned in me that the car had been hit hard on the left before I purchased it. That would explain the difference. Funny how I never noticed it before. Is it possible for the springs to “level out” over time? The struts had 117,000 miles on them. By the way, the first set of quick struts failed at the top mount causing binding and squeaking when steering. Amazon sent two replacements overnight!!!!! These have been fine so far.

  15. Hi Dell,

    The springs will settle in about 5,000 miles, and the height should drop anywhere from a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. Sometimes there is a tag on the new strut indicating this, and other times not.

  16. Hello Dell,

    I am about to replace the rear struts on my 98 camry, and it sounds like I’d be ok with the Monroe Quick Struts, based on your review. Are there other items I should replace while I have it torn apart? The car has about 125000 miles on it.


  17. Hello Joe,

    I noticed on the Monroe website that there is the econo version of the quick strut and another that is more comfortable on the road and in handling. the price of the econo is half of the higher end Monroe. Do you have any experience or knowledge of these two Monroe products? I appreciate the help and the time you took doing the reviews.

  18. Hi Baha,

    I’ve never had good luck with cheaper parts. Especially when it comes to suspension. If you plan on keeping your car, buy the best part you can get. If you’re selling the car in the near future and have to fix a seriously bouncing ride, go with the cheapos.

  19. Hi, Thanks for time and helping us, i was really can’t find the answers for my camry struts i finally found the answers.. thank you so much

  20. I had Pep Boys put the Monroe Quick strut complete assy Part # 171351 on my 96 Toyota 4Runner yesterday. I also had the Monroe Sensa-Trac part # 37157 put on the rear. The front end of the vehicle is really much higher than the rear. It looks like the car has had the front end raised. The technician said that it was because of the new springs and that it will level out with time, but it really looks abnormal. The car was perfectly level before and has always been. Any thoughts?

  21. I agree with the tech that the front end will settle at a lower height. But, I doubt it will be level. New springs in front, old springs in back. Been there and done that, and got the t-shirt. I learned the hard way, I never do only the front springs because it’s almost always going to be higher than the rear.

    4Runners are known for sagging problems in the rear. If it was mine, I’d go buy new springs for the rear. Then it should be level. Start looking at older 4Runners, you’ll start seeing a lot of them lower in the rear…

  22. Hi,
    I put 4 Quick Struts on my Chevy Prizm and not being a car guy I had a buddy ask if I needed to extend the shock on the Quick Struts. I didn’t know what he was talking about really but looked at the included instructions Monroe puts in the box. It talks about taking apart and putting back together the Quick Struts with a note about a retainer nut or such. I did some research to see if there was some process needed to extend the shocks. The tutorials and Youtube videos all show people simply taking the old one out and putting the new Quick Strut (from the box) back into the vehicle without any added steps. Would you please talk briefly about if these is a need to extend or is the Quick Strut ready to go without any added steps?

  23. Dan,

    If you were dismantling the old strut and replacing the cartridge, yes, you would have to twist the piston rod to extend it. But that doesn’t apply here since the Quick Strut is fully assembled and ready to install straight out of the box.

  24. Joe,

    I installed new Quick Struts on both the right and left front corners of my 98 Grand Caravan last week. I also replaced both tie rod ends, both lower control arms (all new bushings and ball joints), stabilizer links and stabilizer bushings. The van has 250,000 Kilometres on it and with everything worn as bad as they were, getting an accurate wheel alignment done was out of the question.

    After I finished the work and had a wheel alignment done, the van has been driving very well. That is until today… Today, when I turn the wheels hard over to the left or the right, I hear a noise coming from the top of the righthand strut tower. It’s not the knocking type of noise normally associated with the upper strut nut being loose but more like the sound of metal turning inside stiff dry rubber. I’m wondering if this sounds to you like an upper bearing issue or something less serious and will go away as it wears in?

    Thanks in advance!

  25. Hi Gordon,

    Hmmm. Sounds like the right front strut is going to have to come back out. There just isn’t anything else but the top mount that could be the problem. I would try one thing first, I’d torque the nut just for grins and see if it was loose. If that doesn’t fix it, it’s going to need another strut. Sorry.

  26. Hi Joe –

    I own a 2007 HHR LT with 100k on it and am about to replace the struts. I like the idea of the Monroe Quick Strut, but some of the people on our Chevy HHR site have had problems with Monroe providing the incorrect spring on them. They warn us that you have to use the old spring, which defeats the purpose. Have you heard any of this and if so, has Monroe corrected the problem? Many thanks!

  27. Thanks Joe –

    I left an e-mail message just after your reply and hoped for a call today. No such luck. As soon as they advise me, I’m going to purchase.

  28. Hi, Joe.

    Am getting ready to put strut assemblies in my 2007 Ford 500, FWD. Anything I should be aware of before I start? Will the rear end need to be aligned afterwards?

  29. Joe,

    Thanks. Have never installed struts before. Reading the notes above it looks like it’s a fairly straightforward to replace them. Are there any mistakes commonly made that you can warn me about?

  30. Joe,

    Installed a set of Monroe quick struts on the front of my 97 Chrysler LHS a few months back. From the beginning the right front side developed a rattle, which I assumed to be caused by the strut, and the left front seems to hit very hard when going over a moderate bump, or depression in the road, no rattle though.

    The article I just read on Tire Review about your review of Monroe Quick Struts indicates that some of the struts will rattle. Is there a fix for this other than replacement?


    George Purpera

  31. Hi George,

    I’d check the torque on the nut in the center of the strut while the front tires are pointed straight. If that fixes the rattle great. If not, remove the right front sway bar link and test drive, if the noise is gone, replace both sway bar end links and sway bar bushings at frame mounts.

  32. Hello…i have a 2000 chev. cavalier, 96000 miles on it,i need some struts,front and back,please tell me what is best for my car, Quick struts or just the struts…..Thanks!

  33. Joe,
    Thanks for the video. As easy as that looks I’m ready to attempt the replacement of all 4 struts on my 2002 Camry LE 2.4. I went to Amazon to price the 4 Quick-Strut assemblies and could not find the product for the front. I found the 171680 for the rear. I searched through all the Amazon parts for this vehicle and couldn’t find the Monroe part. I do see the FCS complete assembly but I would rather have the Monroe (American made) part. Do you know if there is an assembly for the front wheels? Or, does it happen to be the same for the rear and front? Thanks for the assist.


  34. Hi Eric,

    The front and rear are different. I went and looked it up at Amazon, you’re right, they don’t have the fronts in Monroe. But they do have them in Gabriels Gabriel is made in America too.

    I wouldn’t buy the FCS. The only offshore unit I would buy would be KYB.

  35. Hi, Joe. I am utterly useless when it comes to mechanical things. On the other hand I don’t really want to be jerked around by a mechanic when it comes to cost. Are there places that will install struts if I buy them from a place like since they have such low prices? Or will most places make me buy them from them?


  36. Hi Kenneth,
    As far as a shop installing struts you bring in, some will and some won’t. I know one shop that does and I know another that won’t. I’d say your best chance is go through the Tire Rack’s Installers list for your area and call some of them up and ask them before you order any parts.

  37. Thanks, Joe! I have another question: Monroe makes two kinds of struts for a 99 Camry. One is for the 4 cylinder and one is for the V6. Is there a difference between the two? Are they interchangeable?

    The parts are: 171679 and 271679 for example.

  38. Getting the right strut for the 99 Camry can be tricky. I went and looked up the struts using my Napa software and there is a bunch of things you need to know to get the right strut. Such as w/ Chassis # SW20;w/ Chassis # VCV20;w/ Chassis # MCV20. What trim line? 4 cyl or 6?

    I suspect you figure that out using the VIN #. I don’t think I’d recommend you ordering through Amazon in this case. I think you’re more likely to get the wrong parts. More cars are pretty easy to get the right part for. Not this one. Sorry.

  39. Hi Joe,
    I am looking to replace the Shocks & Struts on my 2005 Nissan Quest SE with 108,000 miles. do you have any recommendations as what is best, as I plane to keep the van for as long as it is mechanically sound?

  40. I have a 2000 Chrysler Lhs and i’m been having issue’s with the monroe quick strut assemble for this vehicle. I had replaced all 4 struts at the same time with new inner and outer tie rods, both later links, both sway bars, both lower and upper control arms, sway bar bushings, frame bushings, new hubs in front and rear with new cv joints, set of 4 new tires with rims, also I replaced all 4 calipers, discs and pads. I have had to replace the right side struts because they have gone bad within a month of new ones. Now the issue i’m having with my vehicle is that it pulls to the right and sways side to side while traveling over 35mph. When I go over bumps, the car skips to the side and hits hard. I have several 4 wheel alignments which is required for this vehicle and it has 130,000 miles on it. I have taken my vehicle to several mechanics and even the dealer and all them are telling me that it’s the monroe quick strut assemble that is causing my issue’s and that monroe’s are not good for my car, any suggestions on other struts available?

  41. To Joe and Kenneth, I’d recommend using the V6 version regardless of which engine your car actually has–the springs for the 4-cylinder are known to be pathetically weak and are a joke to be avoided.

    Also, do you have any experience with Monroe’s Econo-Matic cheaper quick strut?

  42. Someone,
    Thanks for your input. I’ve never used the Econo-Matics. My experience has been buying low quality struts and shocks usually gives a low quality result.

  43. The struts are not going to cause a pull to one side. Sounds like a tire pull to me. Tires can cause a multitude of handling problems. Rotate them front to back and see if the pull goes away.

  44. I have a 2004 Chev. Caviler was told if I was going to keep the car to have the mounts and struts replaced at the same time. 122,000 mile on the car. The factory struts are still on the car. This is for the front of the car. What is your Answer? The shop said he would put Monroe struts pkg in. Am I being taken advantage of?

  45. Hi Candy,
    At 122,000 miles, replacing the whole unit is the right way. So no, you’re not being taken advantage of.

  46. I have these installed on my 2000 chrysler LHS. The front right one makes a thumping noise. Just removed the strut again. I saw nothing wrong. So i reinstalled it. Noise still there but not as bad. Any solutions?

  47. I’d look at the sway bar link and subframe mount behind the wheel real close. I’d also take a socket and check the torque on the strut nut. If it’s loose even just a little it will cause a rattle.

  48. Hey Joe great info. How do you think the quick strut would work for a 2003 Lincoln Navigator converting from air suspension to a conventional strut assembly ? Thanks for your time.

  49. Hi Joe,

    A strut on my wife’s car just broke off from the top. It is still working but needs to be replaced. I have been looking at replacing all 4 with quick struts since they are all original. The car is a 2001 Saturn SL1 with 145,000 miles. During my search I have found that some struts are labeled as left front or right front, same withe the rear. But then there are a lot that are just labeled as front or back. How do I choose what I need?

    I also have read that the way the quick strut is mounted matters because there is a slight bow that keep it from rubbing the inner fender. With two identical parts how do you know which way to mount it?

    Lastly, brands. How do I pick? These are the two i have been looking at MONROE Part # 171924, MONROE Part # 171925, along with RAYBESTOS Part # 7171924. Theses seem like the same part and they just inverted the 171 to 717. I am very confused and just want something that will last. Any thoughts on this?

    Thank you.

  50. According to Monroe your part numbers are correct. 924 is the front and 925 is the rear. If they were right and left there would be a different part number for each unit. So where ever you read they were right and left does not apply here.

    I have no clue what you’re talking about when it comes to a slight bow and installation. Quick struts are just about idiot proof when it comes to installing. Just stick it in the inner fender panel and line up the mount holes with the mount and install the nuts. Done.

  51. Hi…I have a 2005 Honda CRV 4WD that I changed all 4 struts with complete strut assemblies from another company (not Monroe). When I put all of them in I immediately noticed that the front of the vehicle was almost 2″ higher than stock. I contacted the company I purchased them from and they assured me that the springs would eventually settle down. Well…it is almost a year later and the car is still way too high…nothing changed. I am thinking of replacing the fronts with the Monroe Quick Struts…but I need to know if the Monroe’s change the ride height. Any input is appreciated.

  52. Hi Rich,
    Springs settle in about 5,000 miles for future reference. Usually they’ll drop about 1/2 an inch. The old springs will sag 1 to 2 inches over a long period of time. You didn’t mention it, but I hope you changed the rear struts/springs too.

    I always do front and rear at the same time so the car comes out level. If the rear springs are shot and I only install front struts/springs, it will almost always be higher than the rear and look like I’m hunting squirrel’s at night with the headlights.

    And to answer your question do they change ride height? Yes.

  53. I got them swapped out with Monroes, both front and back. Once they arrived and I inspected them; I think some of the websites I found parts on don’t know what they are talking about when labeling. Installation was easy and my wife loves the new feel of her car.
    How would you recommend disposing of the old struts assemblies?

  54. Hi Joe,

    Thanks for your time and helping us “do it your-selfers” out!

    I’m about to do the rears on a 2007 explorer using quick struts. Looks straight forward. I read, however, that the service manual states to measure the spacing between the rear wheel and fenders flairs before starting, and to match that spacing after the new struts are installed. This is accomplished by tightening lower strut bolt after this height is matched by using a jack to lift the frame while the wheels are on the ground. It also states to replace the lower strut and knuckle bolts when replacing the struts. I appreciate your thoughts and comments on this and once again, thanks!

  55. Hi Al,

    Sorry for the late reply, I’ve down for a week. I like your manual. That’s a great way to keep the rear camber in the ball park. It still needs an alignment afterwards though.

    As far as changing the bolts go, I never have in over 30 years. And I’ve never had one come back from a bolt failure.

  56. Hi Joe,
    I just installed 2 Monroe quickstruts in a 2006 Chevy Equinox. When I went to get the wheels aligned, the shop told me that these struts did not have camber slots on the strut and to be in perfect alignment, I’d have to take out the struts, slot the bottom mount hole and install a camber bolt kit. The alignment tolerance for this car for camber tops out at 0.2″+, the wheels are at 0.8 and 0.9. I’m hopeful that as the springs settle that the camber will self adjust.

    Should I be concerned about the camber or let it be? Thanks in advance..

  57. Hi John,

    I don’t know why they said the strut had to come out, it’s a very simple procedure to elongate the hole with the vehicle right there on the alignment rack. If you know what you’re doing…

    Yeah, give it a couple thousand miles to settle and then take it back in for alignment. Somewhere else. If it’s within a half a degree of 0 camber either way, I wouldn’t worry about it.

  58. Hi Joe,

    Recently I had Monroe quick struts installed in the front end of my 2007 Hyundai Elantra. The car has 72,000 miles on it (it’s a rebuilt title), and has not had many issues until recently. SIx months ago I had the sway bar links replaced, and a year prior to that the sway bar itself was replaced. I live in VT, where there are many pot holed roads that are uneven. However, I have noticed that it seems like my passenger side drops a little lower than my driver side. It could be the roads, but seems very uneven and odd. Should this be cause for concern? My care is perfectly aligned, and does not pull to either side while driving.
    Thanks for your help.


  59. Hi Matt,

    Keep an eye on it. Because if it gets worse, it will mess up the alignment. As height changes, camber and toe change too. Maybe measure the height and write it down and recheck in 3 months. IF it’s dropped even more, then I’d change that strut.

  60. How do you know if you need to replace the lower mounting hardware. Appreciate the help

  61. Hi Hector,

    I don’t think I’ve ever had to replace the hardware in over 30 years of doing struts. I don’t even know why they include that message. Don’t worry about it if the bolts and nuts look OK.

  62. Hi, I have 1995 Olds cutlass ciera that I know needs new struts…I have always avoided doing struts because of the need to comlpress the springs…so these quick struts are tempting me to do it myself, I have done most other work on my car. Do I need a spring complressor to get the old strut out to replace with the quick strut?

  63. Hi Bill,
    No spring tool required. 3 bolts on top and 2 down at the knuckle and out it comes. Do not remove center nut on top.

  64. Hi Joe, first I would like to say thanks for the excellent review! I have a JDM 1991 Toyota MR2 GT and my suspension is totally gone. My dillema is this: I live in Calgary, Alberta Canada and our road conditions are quite insane. Poorly paved roads and in the winter we have about 2-4 inches of ice on the road making for an interesting ride. My question is with such an old Toyota and such horrible road conditions, would it be better to go with the Monroe Quick struts to compensate for the conditions or the KYB’s? I once had a Mazda with a stiff suspension and he roads destroyed that within one winter. Thank you!

  65. Hi Jason,

    I like your rational for going with a softer strut. If you lived somewhere with really good roads, I’d say KYB since the MR2 is a sports car, but, in your situation, Monroe’s would be the better choice.

  66. Thanks for the quick response Joe! One final question for you if you don’t mind: are the Quick struts universal fitting? I’m having a hard time figuring out if I can put them on my car. Thanks again!

  67. Unfortunately there is not a quickstrut available for your MR2 Jason. I just checked with Monroe and they only make replacement strut cartridges for your particular vehicle. Sorry. I checked other brands at Amazon and didn’t see anything there other than cartridges too.

  68. Hi Joe,

    My wife’s 2000 Camry (2.2L 4-Cyl) had Quick Struts ( from Amazon 171678-171681) put on it almost two years ago. I noticed right away a low sometimes clunk sound and sometimes a rattle sound. It also rode kind of high, which my mechanic stated would settle in. It did a little, but not to the same height as stock. I lived with it for almost two years until I’d had enough. I had all the quick struts replaced a few months ago and the sound persisted. I had the sway bar end links replaced. Sound still persisted. I had the sway bar bushings replaced. Sound still persisted. I had the Quick Struts replaced again just last month. The sound still persists. I emptied the car and took it to three separate mechanic shops and they all say there is nothing wrong with the suspension other than the noise…which appears to be made by the quick struts. They told me to either purchase a different strut option, or turn up the radio.

    Do quick struts generally make these little noises? I can be simply backing down my driveway, run over a twig, and here a very low thunk sound.

  69. Hi Charles,

    Open the hood. Locate the top of each strut. If there is a round plastic cover in the middle of the strut, pry it off. Get a breaker bar with appropriate socket, probably 19mm. Take breaker bar and check torque on center nut under the plastic cover you removed. The nuts should be tight. Any looseness in the torque of the nut will produce a clunk going over bumps. I’ve found these loose on quite a few occasions.

    And no, struts don’t make noise if assembled correctly. You said you replaced the swaybar bushings, hopefully on the rear axle too. I’ve seen lots of Camry’s clunk in the rear from worn bushings. Good luck.

  70. Joe, I have many years of experience as a mechanic, however, my wife’s Mom has a 1995 Olds 98 that needs all struts replaced. I see that the rear only are self-leveling air types, and wondered if I could replace these (along with the front struts) with a standard struts as a bolt-in? Sensen offers a set of four for less that the price of two (they’re closeouts). Adding new mounting kits, and bumpers combined still result in a much less expensive swap. My greatest concern is if I would encounter a problem with strut lengths? The air system is toast and the rear end is now a solid ground to body ride. The right side tire couldn’t be replaced at a tire shop due to being unable to clear the wheelwell. Also, I have considered the Quikstruts, even with the increased cost factor, but remain unsure about which manufacturer. The car is showing its age, has 220,000 miles, and we are going to be rid of it within 8-12 months. Thanks for any advise.

  71. Hi Jeff,

    Sounds to me like you have nothing to loose. If the strut manufacturer shows a listing for a quick strut in the rear, it should work fine. You can check Arnott’s? for an exact conversion. They make regular struts to replace air bag suspension.

  72. Joe,
    I apologize; I didn’t mean to mislead. Sensen doesn’t offer a quikstrut version, only the standard cartridge replacement. That’s my dilemma. My knowledge of OEM versus replacements is limited, so I don’t wish to experiment on a car of this age and mileage. Do you know is a standard strut will work in lieu of the self-leveling OEM?
    Thanks for your help.

  73. I don’t know for sure. Call these guys, Toll Free: 1-800-251-8993 they should know since they sell conversion kits from air to standard.

  74. Joe, You have a wealth of good knowledge, that helps a lot of folks. Just a note of FYI. Arnott does not carry struts for any Olds models other than Aurora, Bravada, or Silhouette. I’ll keep digging. Thanks again.

  75. Thank you Joe for a very informative thread. Your responses are prompt, down to earth and very friendly. As a shade mechanic, I soaked up a lot of lessons learned from this thread. Anyway, you mentioned to check the torque on the top strut nut. What would be the minimum torque for the Monroe Quick Struts?

  76. Thanks Jake! I don’t have a universal torque number handy, but I would say the equivalent of torquing a wheel on a car. Probably about 85 lbs.

  77. I have an ’05 PT Cruiser with 95k the rear is a shock with a spring while the front is a strut, with that set up I plan on replacing both on the rear but I want to know is OK to Mix and Match the Monroe quick strut on the front and shock/spring in the rear? Does it matter that there are no different part numbers for left and right on the front Monroe Quick Strut in the front for the PT Cruiser? I’m not looking for lowering the car I”m just trying to get an better ride not performance just smooth ride for the wife’s car..

  78. Sometimes the same part number is interchangeable for both sides.
    It’s possible that if you install new springs only on the front, it may be higher than the rear. That’s the risk you run when not replacing front and rear springs at the same time.

  79. Great write up Joe! Maybe you can help me with an issue im having now. I have a 2004 Honda Odyssey. I replaced both front strut assemblies with Monroe quick struts and the rear shocks with Monroe coil-over shocks. I noticed the van pulled to the right and I took it to a trusted alignment shop. They alligned it, rotated tires, swapped left and right tires, checked tire size and pressure, checked dragging brakes, and the van still pulls hard to the right most noticeable at 25 -35 MPh and it is getting worse. Only thing I’ve noticed was the right side is a little over 1/2 inch taller than the drivers side. Any ideas? THANKS!

  80. Hi Tommy,

    If the van is higher on the right, I’d expect it to pull left due to increased camber on the left and negative on the right. I doubt this is where the problem lies. I’ve seen tires cause pulls even after I’ve cross them front to back and sprayed holy water on them. Phew! I HATE tire pulls and it sounds like you might have one. Especially since you say it’s getting worse.

    Most likely a complete set of tires is going to be the fix. Sorry.

  81. I have an 06 Navigator. I want to convert the air suspension to a coil system. I am divided between using the Monroe Quick Struts or ordering from a company called Strutmasters who specialize in conversion kits. They claim to use “Eilbach” springs. Have you ever heard of them? I would save about $270 if I went with Monroe.

  82. I’ve bought struts from Strutmasters a few years ago. At the time they were made off shore. Monroe’s are made in the U.S. I’d buy Monroe if possible.

  83. Hi Leann,

    For an 01 Grand Cherokee I’d install Monroe Sensa Trac’s if I wanted a plush ride. KYB Gas Adjust if I wanted a firm ride or pulled any kind of trailer.

  84. Hi Joe,

    Thank you for all your pointers. I am currently installing Monroe quick struts and was wondering about the torque requirements for the inner nut. First off I am not sure if these are suppose to come already torqued to spec. You mentioned that there had been some issues with this. Other than trying to check the torque myself which is rather a hassle because of the design. You need special tools and I think the spring needs to be compressed to properly check the torque. The top rubber strut mount seems loose to me. I can wiggle it around a bit but maybe it is suppose to be like this? Any suggestions?

    S. Taylor

  85. Hi Scott,

    The inner nut is already torqued to spec. On front struts I don’t even check them. Because I can come back and tighten if there’s a rattle. But I always check the rears or any strut that I can not easily access the top of after installation. Quickstruts are supposed to be installed right out of the box.

  86. Hi Joe,
    quick question: I have Toyota camry 2006 LE, few days ago driving to work I heard strong bang and later that day found part from sring coil broken: I need to repalce strut but what is your opinion about FCS? are they any good or monroe is much better? I am living in Chicago IL,
    Thanks for help

  87. Hi Micheal,
    I’m not positive, but I suspect they are built in China. Monroe is built in America. Personally, I wouldn’t put them on my car. And yes, Monroe is that much better.

    I went and looked at the FCS website to see country of manufacture and couldn’t find it. They have an office in Michigan, but when I tried to contact them the links all led to Google. Then I read at the bottom of the page that a couple of amateurs built their website. If they can’t even build a simple website properly, it makes me wonder about the quality of their parts.

  88. Hi Joe:

    Can’t find Quick Struts for my 2007 Toyota Highlander 2wd Hybrid. Do they not make them or am I not looking in the right places? Isn’t it the same platform as the Camry and/or the Lexus RX300 series?

  89. Hi Joe
    I have a 2004 Camry SE, 3.3 engine, should I replace my struts with the factory issue ones or are the Monroe’s or KYB are just as good?

  90. I think the KYB’s are every bit as good as factory struts. Monroes are a close second…

  91. Hi Joe,

    I have a 2006 honda civic lx and just had the struts and shocks replaced with Monroe’s. After the install, I hear a random rattle at low speeds (10 or under). I just had the right rear shock replaced by the shop and I’m still hearing it, now from the left side as well.

    I also had SPC rear upper control arms put in to help better align the car (excessive negative camber). These are solid pieces of performance fade aluminum. The shop is saying they will replace the rear left strut as well but are starting to suggest it may be the control arms. Is this even possible?

    SPC is saying no way it could be their parts if it is torqued to spec. The shop is saying if it’s still there after replacing the left that there is no way it could be 2 bad new struts.

    What do you think is going on here? What should I tell the shop to look for? Thanks!

  92. Joe,
    Thanks for sharing your expertise. I’m electrical by trade, with fair mechanical skills, however, over the last 40 years I’ve begun to prefer to do any maintenance/repair work on my vehicles myself because at least this way I KNOW that things are done and right.
    My wife just had her 2003 Honda Oddessy (130K mi.) into the Honda shop for an airbag recall and oil change where they told her that the struts needed replacement. So they conveniently gave her a fancy packet of paper containing their version of “struts for dummies” and their price to replace the cartridges. At $875 I almost tipped over and decided to DIM. Luckily, I found the Monroe quick struts and ordered them online. I also got a pair of Monroe rear load stabilizer shocks and did the whole job myself in about 5 hrs. in the driveway and then scheduled an alignment & tire balance. All was well until I picked up the van after the alignment and drove it. There was a very distinctive clunk coming from the steering gear when turning in both directions, very disturbing, so I returned to the shop andpresented the problem. After a day of road resting and looking they could not determine any cause so I googled this and your blog popped up! I read almost all the Q&A and quickly established that maybe Monroe didn’t torque the strut nut. Yes indeed, they missed the passenger side nut. A 18mm wrench and 5 minutes cured it all! Thanks to you, it’s now “Jam Up & Jelly Tight”. And I’m again cruelly reminded of my own “Rule #1”, that is: NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE STUPIDITY OF OTHERS.
    You’re the best!

  93. (I tried to post this question before, but I don’t see it for some reason. Apologies if it will show up twice).

    Hi Joe,

    I have Monroe Quickstruts installed in the front (one of the original springs snapped). The car is 2005 Camry LE, 4 cyl auto.
    It’s been several months and just over a thousand miles (I do short local trips mostly). The springs have settled a bit, but the front is still too high. I called Monroe and they gave me the expected ride height for my car and I am too high, somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 of an inch. I asked them how long it should take for the struts to reach stock height and they said 1000 miles. Since it’s been that long already I am beginning to worry, I definitely don’t want it to stay like this.
    Should I wait more or it’s time to ditch the quickstruts?


  94. Sound like the rear springs are worn out. Replace rear and I suspect car will be level.

  95. I’d have to agree with SPC. And I’d have to agree with the shop. But I would bet the top nut of the strut is loose.

  96. Thanks Joe.

    Hate to be a stick in the mud, but when you say “the car will be level”, do you simply mean that the gaps on the front and back will become the same? Or, the worn rears jack the front up and, therefore, by replacing the rears I will reduce the front height?

    The reason I am asking is that I’d hate to have truck-like gaps all around 🙂

    Thanks again,

  97. I said that because if the front springs were worn out and sagging, the rear are too, so let’s say you only replaced the rear first, typically, the rear would be higher than the front.

    Anymore I replace all four struts/springs at the same time to keep from getting burned. But here’s the thing, the replacement spring probably isn’t exactly the same as what came on your car from the factory, so yes, you could wind up with big gaps above each tire.

    Years ago I used to change springs all the time, now you know where I got all the grey air from! Getting the exact same spring that came on a vehicle is almost impossible, unless you go with factory springs. And then, ordering the right one is usually a nightmare and a lot more money, “if” you can even get them.

  98. I see. Hmm, what do I do…is it realistically possible to retrofit a factory spring on a quick strut? I should be able to get those easily.

  99. Sure it\’s possible. You just have to piece it all together. Strut, spring, hat assembly. And you may still wind up with a look you\’re not happy with because some models have so many different spring choices due to engine size, with or without A/C, sport model etc…

  100. Hi Joe,

    I hear you about a variety of stock springs. I took care ordering a set, cross-checked using my vin. Had it installed and the car basically leveled and now looks quite natural. There’s a good half-an-inch difference between the Monroe spring and a new oem one.

    Thank you.

  101. Thanks Joe for the info!

    I had a clunking sound after installing these and after I read that the strut nut could be loose, I took them out and had them tightened. No issues now……

  102. Joe, I am replacing the rear strut assemblies with KYB’S in a couple days, my problem is the front KYB quick struts are not available for 3 months. can you mix brands , I was thinking about Gabriel for the front, and how good are the Gabriel. thanks Mike

  103. Gabriel makes quality parts. I would mix them and KYB’s if I had to. I doubt it would be a problem.

  104. Dear Joe,

    I am just impressed, and grateful, that you take this time to help consumers. I’m preparing to put Monroe quick-struts on my 2009 LaCrosse (93K miles), and feel much better about the decision after reading your comments. Thank you!

  105. Hi Richard,
    Thank you for your nice comment. I’m sorry for the unbelievably late reply due to health issues. Hopefully I can get back up to speed with replies now. Thanks again.

  106. Hi Joe,
    Thanks for taking the time and sharing your expertise.
    My friend slid into a curb hard enough to put a big crack in his 2011 Toyo Highlander wheel. After replacing the wheel he got an alignment done and they said they couldnt get it within specs (very close, but not quite). The alignment held for a while, but has gotten progressively worse over the past month of driving and its making a lot of noise now. Two shops that looked at it cant find any visible damage.
    The Toyota dealer says the strut is broken and wants $800 to replace ONE strut. They say you dont need to change them in pairs. That didnt make sence to me given the car has 55k miles on it and the other side should be well worn by now. They also said that after replacing the strut, it might need a new wheel hub and bearing (at over $1k more). I suspect they are looking to keep changing suspect parts until the problem goes away.
    We’re thinking about putting in a pair of struts, but I’m wondering if there may be other damage to look for while we’re under there. Is there an easy way to check out that wheel hub?
    Any advise would be greatly appreciated!

  107. Hi Joe,

    Everything the Toyota dealer said was true. When a vehicle takes a hit to a wheel like that you can almost bet the balls in the bearing race indented the surface of the bearing race. Then in about 3 months the bearing starts to howl. Or, you can just change the bearing now. It’s a really common scenario on vehicles that that hit things hard enough to bend parts and or wheels.

    Personally, I would change both struts because of mileage. But they may be compelled by state law to say you only “have” to change the one strut.

  108. Hi Joe, I have a 2001 Toyota Tundra 4×4 that needs new struts. Would the Monroe Quickstruts be a good choice for a pickup?


  109. Hello Joe,
    I am getting ready to put strut assemblies on my 2007 Commander and would like your opinion on FCS products compared to Monroe and others. Also considering putting in a 2″ leveling kit at the same time, any comments on how this might effect strut performance?

  110. I seem to recall FCS being made in China. I don’t think I would use them and I’m no fan of leveling kits based on the problems I’ve seen them cause. Like pre-maturely worn tie rods and broken CV boots.

  111. Hi Steve. Sorry for the way late answer. Yes, the Quickstruts would be fine for your truck. I just installed a pair on the front of a Tundra the other day and the customer is very happy.

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